October 5, 2012

Checkmate
at Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s Spring Summer 2013 ready-to-wear collection inspired by Daniel Buren’s work, Les Deux Plateaux, was a mathematician’s dream - an homage to geometry and architecture.

The show’s site-specific installation was created by Buren in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. His famous columns, ascending and descending escalators, spilled out onto a yellow and white checked runway.

The models with their mod, sixties flair walked in pairs - sheathed in clean crisp rectangles embellished with Louis Vuitton’s iconic damier pattern. The strict checkerboard grid held the place of honor in differing colors and textures as well as varying scales. For the first time ever, the Monogram was nowhere to be seen.

The perfect symmetry and blank boldness of the collection spoke of extreme precision and labor-intensive technique. From the tiniest sequins ever produced arranged by the thousands to create fluid metallic surfaces to the perfectly trimmed goose feathers painstakingly applied in crisp squares, the precious skill that is synonymous with the House was on display.

Duality was the mot-clé and was pronounced through the use of two-toned grid, shiny and matte textures and presence and absence as in the case of the dresses with the cut-out squares. The various looks presented in pairs underline this fundamental rule and helped to heighten these oppositions.

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