at Louis Vuitton
A wide-eyed dreamer, Paul Helbers – under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs – created for Louis Vuitton a show steeped in the disturbing ambiance of a David Lynch movie, with figures in dark glasses walking the runway to the sound of Fifties' rock. With its somber monochrome palette, the collection focused soberly on simplicity of form and quality of fabric. Influenced by Amish dress, it seemed to take a step back from the noise of the world.
In its celebration of discreet elegance, the show centered on the structured cuts of paneled cardigan-jackets and collarless shirts, on contrasts and layering of materials, on subtle details and hidden finishes. Ties were looped nonchalantly around the neck, while oversize bags embossed with the new Damier Infini motif asserted the timeless style of Louis Vuitton.