January 18, 2013

Prefall
collections

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Givenchy, Céline, Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton and Emilio Pucci presented their highly anticipated 2013-14 prefall women’s collections last week, giving a taste of what we can expect on the catwalks this February.

Céline revisited the House’s codes to offer a series of admirably structured pieces. Oversize proportions were amped up a notch with skyscraper-like wedges. The leatherwork shone in this collection, particularly in the pleated midi skirts.

After a decidedly feminine Spring/Summer collection for Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci drew inspiration from silhouettes borrowed from menswear. Boxy angles, geometric prints, and no-fuss neoclassical lines were softened with a touch of lace.

At Donna Karan, the looks were structured but flowing and the materials played up the infinite possibilities of light. The vocabulary resonates perfectly with the DNA of the House and its legendary seven easy pieces. One stand-out reinterpretation was the tailored suit with strikingly cinched waist.

The Louis Vuitton  show was a master class in texture. Lace was everywhere in myriad incarnations – print, embroidery, or jacquard – giving the collection a baroque feel. The restrained color palette of blacks, reds, beiges, and grays heightened the overall effect.

As the awards season kicks off across the Atlantic, Emilio Pucci’s red carpet-ready pieces were perfectly on script. A Sixties’ inspiration came through in coats, mini-dresses, and tailored suit trousers. Beautifully embroidered evening jackets showed the expert touch of Peter Dundas.

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