Christian Dior haute couture SS 2009

hristian Dior and Givenchy presented truly magnificent Spring/Summer collections, as feminine as they are sophisticated… 

At Christian Dior, John Galliano sent out a jubilant and summery lesson in style with haute couture that is "more Dior than Dior".

Drawing inspiration from classic Flemish painters, the season's collection revisits Dior's traditional structuring and cuts.

Marrying the luminous yellow, red and blue palette of Vermeer with the noble postures of Van Dyck's stately portraits, Galliano proposed exuberant volumes and architectured silhouettes.

All eyes were instantly drawn to pleated draping effects and exquisitely complex embroidery.

Playing in counterpoint to the ample, full skirts were assertive shoulders, slender waists and hats sprung from a quirky flourish of the paintbrush.

Sculpted from generous swirls of material with crinolined hemlines, the dresses offered a peek of spring in flowery prints inspired by porcelain Delftware. 

Christian Dior haute couture Spring/Summer 2009

Haute couture SS 2009 © Givenchy

At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci also drew inspiration from the arts with a collection that combines the decadent sensuality of Victorian painter Alma-Tadema and the dramatic intensity of German choreographer Pina Bausch.

In a game of subdued contrasts running from pastel tones to a sexy harness, he staged two visions of women.

The first was romantic, as models strolled across a bed of rose petals in lace veils.

The slender silhouettes were enhanced by pale tones of alabaster, washed stone and pink marble, shaped by draping that evokes Roman togas.

Then came the erotic vision, as feathery webs of fabric revealed leather and elastic harnesses. Solid silver chains brought éclat to the matte tones, contrasting with the soft lines.

The new collection is resolutely modern, affirming the untamed femininity that Tisci champions.

Haute couture Spring/Summer 2009 © Givenchy

Christian Dior and Givenchy gave a remarkable demonstration of couture at the pinnacle of artistic creativity, a case study in savoir-faire and inspiration for luxury that expresses continually renewed meaning.

(Published on March 18, 2009)