Women’s Spring-Summer 2018 Fashion Weeks: joyful femininity

Fashion & Leather Goods

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From New York to Milan to Paris, LVMH Fashion and Leather Goods Maisons – Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Christian Dior, Kenzo, Loewe, Givenchy, Céline and Louis Vuitton – presented their collections for the Spring-Summer 2018 season. Spotlight on the silhouettes throughout the week…

PARIS FASHION WEEK

Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton closed Fashion Week with great éclat. After staging runway shows in the Louvre’s Cour Carré for many years, last season the Maison moved inside the world’s most visited museum. Once again, the decor was majestic – the foundations of the medieval Louvre – a perfect backdrop for a Spring-Summer 2018 collection all about anachronism. Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director for Louis Vuitton women’s collections, proposed a voyage through time in a dialogue juxtaposing wardrobes from different eras.  Garments from eighteenth-century French aristocracy, the refinement of ceremonial dress and fine embroidery blend with the dynamic and casual modernity of today’s cloths. An elaborate tail coat drapes harmoniously over tapered pants and a melancholic dress flows down to sneakers from another world. The ultimate result is a resolutely feminine silhouette, bold and modern, with allure and aplomb.

Givenchy
Discover Clare Waight Keller’s debut Collection for Givenchy.

Kenzo
Kenzo presented its Memento N°2 Collection during Paris Fashion Week, paying tribute to the 1986 Kenzo Jeans collection. Taking Eastern principles and fusing them with Western ones, Kenzo Takada created an entirely new aesthetic. Kenzo Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon reworked the collection, applying kimono details with standout colors like raw indigo and samurai red denim. Vintage Kenzo prints such as the bamboo tiger and bamboo stripe appear on reversible Hawaiian shirts, dress, anoraks and rayon shirts. For accessories, the collection proposes nylon patent knot bags in jade, samurai red or black, backpacks, bum bags and totes in durable denim.

 

Christian Dior
Inspired by a series of photographs of Niki de Saint Phalle and little dresses designed by Marc Bohan – Creative Director of Dior from 1961 to 1989 – the collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director for Dior women’s collections, celebrates feminine creativity. Les Nanas – sculptures of extraordinary women – multicolored hearts, dragons, the tree of love and the artist’s Tarot Garden are all transformed into patterns, broken embroideries and mirror mosaics in both the clothes and the scenography for the show. The silhouettes propose a dialogue with lace, silk, leather and plastic.  

MILAN FASHION WEEK

Fendi
The ambiance at the Fendi show in Milan was completely different as Italian Futurism met tropical travel. The Rome-based Maison presented a brightly hued, airy collection with plays on the symmetry of stripes, diaphanous layers and checkerboard patterns. Silhouettes draped off shoulders or revealed them, nipped at the waist and bloomed into full-length cotton skirts.   Denim trench coats and leather marquetry contrasted with cool poplin tops, silk organza and chiffon. The shows also marked the first appearance on the catwalk of the Mon Trésor bag, festooned with metallic pearls, and the new Runaway tote in transparent tartan mesh with rattan handles. 

Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci staged a pool party to present a collection bursting with summery colors. The palette of white, aqua, coral and emerald was joined by Nisida and Flamingo prints. Patterns and fabrics such as stretch cotton and washed silk combined in a play of transparencies to express the idea of softness. Colorful accessories featured printed Capri sandals, coral necklaces and mini bags for a collection that embodies joyful femininity. 

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 

Marc Jacobs
Models walked to the sounds of silence at the Marc Jacobs show during New York Fashion Week. Fantasy twisted into reality in a collection about reimagining seasons past. Marc Jacobs presented an eclectic and boldly colorful collection with flowing, supple cuts. A mélange of nylons mixed with silk and synthetic satins, jerseys and twills in knotted and draped turbans, sarouel track pants and oversize sweaters. Fringes, jewels and pompons embellished sportswear looks with Eastern inspirations.