Under a sculptural tent fashioned in the grounds of the École Militaire in Paris, the silhouettes in the Givenchy Spring-Summer 2024 women’s collection present the vision of contemporary elegance of Artistic Director Matthew M. Williams. Inspired by a chrysalis, the immaculate work designed by Gabriel Calatrava created an intimate space where draping, hand-painted flowers, lace and pearls all bloomed.
Throughout the collection, the silhouettes oscillate between structure and ease, black monochromes and gracious pastels, thick and diaphanous fabrics. Gentleman’s tailoring is set off by the delicacy of the skin. Plays of layered transparency are sprinkled throughout the collection as gloves highlight the curves of the arms, and pointed pumps are encased in translucent stockings. Lace volants reveal the beauty of a neckline. Day appropriates evening codes in draping re-energized by flou techniques. Overlays are spliced in chiffon, taffeta, organza or mud silk, a technique for dying silk from river mud inherited from the Ming Dynasty, creating a leathery effect.
Matthew M. Williams shares Hubert de Givenchy’s passion for flowers, which embellish leather and materialize in rose formations, almond green prints or on the bustier of a spring evening gown. Symbols of the ephemeral, hand-painted flowers, including irises, seem to leave their imprint on the skin. Jewels transform the clothing, covering the body in latticed pearl and crystal. Chokers, hoop earrings and rings celebrate the perfect sphere of the pearl, imagining new ways to wear the jewelry. Mules play with ruching, while the signature Shark Lock boot is reinterpreted in an open-toe version. The Voyou line introduces sliding chain straps, and a new trapezoid flap bag is framed by imposing chunky buckles.