Fall-Winter 2017 show: first collection by Haider Ackermann for Berluti
A highlight of Men’s Fashion Week was the much-awaited debut collection for Berluti by Haider Ackermann. The show revealed new basics in a wardrobe for men.
The passage of time imparts a patina to materials. This was the basic concept that inspired Haider Ackermann, Berluti’s new Creative Director, as he designed his first collection for the Maison. A manifesto for clothes that develop a patina over time and are easily handed on from one generation to the next, the collection is designed as a list of key pieces.
A black leather aviator jacket with red lining, a bomber jacket in nylon and cashmere, a soft velvet tuxedo in royal blue, leather bags as exquisite as they are casual… The distinctive essence of Berluti lies in the details and the amazing quality of materials, like a roll neck cashmere sweater with just two seams that fits like a second skin.
The color palette for these basics is marked by contrasts. Timeless camel, navy and kaki are joined by unusual combinations as blues and powder pink hues clash with burgundy. Color becomes a vibration on lace-up boots in an emerald green that is almost black as light reveals the complexity of tone.