Fendi in Milan, Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Givenchy and Loewe in Paris: new men’s collections for fall-winter 2017 from LVMH fashion houses
The Roman house presented a collection that was all about optimism at Milan Fashion Week, which ran from January 13-17. Accessories featured positive messages like “Try”, “Bliss” and “Hope” and the clothes emphasized comfort, including quilted coats. Colors became a statement, ranging from gray and khaki to pink, yellow and orange. Materials were equally upbeat as neoprene, felt and nylon updated timeless pieces and gave the collection an inimitably Fendi twist.
The Louis Vuitton men’s silhouette for Fall-Winter 2017 is marked by relaxed elegance and polished tailoring, with workwear and luxurious materials like silk and cashmere in utilitarian cuts. The show also unveiled the eagerly awaited accessories collaboration with New York streetwear brand Supreme. Men’s Creative Director Kim Jones proposed a new take on the Monogram and revisted Epi leather, both embossed with the Supreme logo.
Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of Loewe, presented a men’s collection inspired by the idea of composition, creating a dichotomy between fully styled and destructured looks. An abundance of tartans played with layering while both sweaters and jackets came in bold colors. Drawing on innovative treatment techniques and manufacturing processes, the Spanish house proposed a fresh take on its classics like the signature sailor’s pants and asymmetric shirt. Staged in an idealized factory, the “Loewe” workers infused utilitarian clothes with a subversive energy.
The Dior Homme show on January 21 presented a collection celebrating memories and dreams. Kris Van Assche – who is celebrating his tenth year at the helm of Dior Homme Creative Direction– proposes a new style that draws energy from youth and rave parties. This spirit, dubbed “Hardior” – shorthand for Hardcore and Dior – plays on contrasts between colors and silhouettes. The Dior man comes into focus from this meeting between street and sartorial, between relaxed and classic tailoring.
Givenchy presented is Men’s Fall-Winter 2017 collection at the recently renovated historic Bibliothèque Nationale de France on rue Richelieu. Inspired by Riccardo Tisci’s childhood memories, references to the American West were ubiquitous, adding up to a resolutely optimistic collection. Signature Givenchy codes juxtaposed stripes, stars and check motifs with embroidered patterns and graphic colorful prints for a buoyant ode to diversity.
Find out all about the combined men’s and women’s collections by Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week here.
Take a look at Haider Ackermann’s first fashion show for Berluti Homme here.