Men’s Fashion Weeks kicked off as Fendi unveiled its looks for men for Spring/Summer 2020 in Milan. LVMH Maisons Louis Vuitton, Berluti, Dior, Loewe, Kenzo and Celine will follow in Paris from June 20th. Spotlight on these new takes on the masculine wardrobe.
Fendi presented its Spring/Summer 2020 men’s collection in a bucolic setting. Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director of the Roman Maison chose the open air as the stage for the Fendi man with creations that convey a breezy pragmatism through an emphasis on functionality and utility. From overalls, suits and cargo pants to long polo shirts and vests, the collection embraces a palette of greens, beiges and browns combined with natural materials such as silk, cotton, wool, cashmere, leather and denim. Roomy volumes with slits and openings create a feeling of lightness. Silk piping and treillage-effect nets celebrate Fendi’s exquisite savoir-faire. “Botanics for Fendi” prints by artist Luca Guadagnino add a painterly touch to organza. The signature Fendi FF logo and the striped Pequin motif highlight the accessories with a skillful play of logos and textures.
On Place Dauphine, the mundanity of everyday café life melds with the atmosphere of walks along the Seine, crêpe stands and evocations of boyhood bliss like a bouncy castle, ice cream, balloons, and kite-flying. A postcard Paris décor set the tone for the Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 show. Men’s Artistic Director Virgil Abloh presented creations liberated from social norms, celebrating the flower as a natural metaphor for diversity and an ode to the summer season, with a palette of pastel tones.
Presented in front of the Orangerie of the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris, the Berluti Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection expands on the adventurous wardrobe proposed for the previous season, amplifying its details. Informed by the stained surfaces of the marble tables on which Berluti artisans in the Manufacture de Ferrare hand-dyed patina shoes, Artistic Director Kris Van Assche added bright neon and fluorescent hues to his palette. The patina suit, transmuted from the classic Alessandro shoe, is embossed with the Maison’s heritage scritto motif, which reappears on jacquard shirts and suits, printed on sportswear, as well as on bags and in the details of linings and zips. With an unrestrained attitude towards dress codes, silhouettes expand in pants, Bermuda shorts and sleeveless jackets with epaulettes. Kris Van Assche also explores new iterations of sportswear with takes on perforation in woven leather tops. The collection underscores the continuity between Kris Van Assche’s contemporary spirit and Berluti’s rich heritage.
For his Spring-Summer 2020 collection, Dior Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones explores the Maison’s past in a collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham. The resulting creations celebrate the Dior heritage with pieces rooted in the history and excellence of its savoir-faire. A selection of new essentials spotlight the contemporary vision and heritage of Kim Jones. The Dior newspaper print, created for the Spring-Summer 2000 haute couture collection is redrafted in collaboration with Daniel Arsham. The Oblique tailleur finds new iterations in coats and jackets. The Saddle bag sees its curves adapted as storm flaps on trench coats, and draped sashes evolve with shaded tones. Inspired by the architecture that was essential to Christian Dior’s creations, supple, fluid shapes are gently structured with techniques borrowed from sculptural elements. Bonded leather is detailed like a frieze and the shaded tone-on-tone Dior Oblique monogram evokes bas-relief. The collection also introduces a first-ever collaboration with RIMOWA, a capsule collection including a backpack, hand case and clutch characterized with the German house’s iconic aluminum grooves.
In dialogue with the work of London-based artist Hilary Lloyd, the Loewe Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection is an invitation to travel through a dream-like filter. Long and pure silhouettes revolve around harmonious ensembles of texture disrupted by new volumes. With this collection, Loewe Artistic Director Jonathan Anderson affirms the Maison’s dedication to preserving global craft, including hand-embroidered red cotton, woven indigo cloth, linen denim and punched cotton gauze. Sailor’s shirts, silk dungarees and monochrome short suits in layers of poplin and voile meet airy knits and tanks in vertical stripes. The new Loewe tailoring returns with a relaxed two-button blazer. Accessories include moccasins, suede sandals and boat shoes that evoke the summer, along with lace-up boots in espadrille stripes, channeling Loewe’s Spanish roots. The Berlingo bag is introduced in a large size and the iconic Puzzle bag is revisited with a deconstructed silhouette. Loewe also debuts a new leather Shopper Backpack, referencing the Maison’s leather savoir-faire.
With a soundtrack by Brooklyn rock group Bodega, Hedi Slimane presented his Celine men’s collection for Spring-Summer 2020 in a set built in Place Vauban at the Invalides in Paris. Following last season’s neon graphic ball backdrop, Celine’s Artistic Director revealed his first look in a luminous cube covered by a red curtain. The spectacular theatrics set the tone as Hedi Slimane continued his journey through the late 70s New Wave era and post punk that emerged from the UK. The show was punctuated by rock’n’roll inspired pieces including leather bomber jackets, pointed collar shirts, animal print coats, flared pants, cowboy boots and aviator sunglasses.
For the Kenzo Spring-Summer 2020 collection, Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim drew inspiration from the seas surrounding Japan, where modern-day superheroes plunge to the bottom of the ocean to retrieve treasures. Known as the Ama, these groups of female free divers have for 2,000 years dived to the ocean floor to forage for shrimp, urchins and even pearls. Referencing these women – who have become known as the “last mermaids” – the Kenzo Women’s and Men’s collections for Spring-Summer 2020 are a tapestry of elements combining traditional Japanese marine garments with modern, technical diving gear. The runway show at the AccorHotels Arena included hardy rubberized outerwear in orange and violet, while Hawaiian shirts about with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Cotton sweaters in indigo or dark grays walk alongside tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Summer linen jackets and coats feature sailor collars and shorts in laser cut nylon. Accessories showcased the new K-Wave sneaker style inspired by scuba-diving shoes.