From Milan to Paris, LVMH Maisons reinvent the men’s wardrobe for Fashion Week
Fashion & Leather Goods
LVMH Fashion & Leather Goods Houses – Fendi, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Loewe, Kenzo and Céline – present their vision of men’s fashion during Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Week shows in Milan and Paris.
For the new collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of the Italian house, imagined a play of contrasts between decoration and simplicity. The summer wardrobe evokes journeys to destinations both near and far, with a playful color palette reflecting earth, sea and sky, ranging from melon and indigo to ocher and silver gray. Accessories include moccasins with fringed denim and suede, as well as visors. The new Fendi Roma bucket bag in toile and leather features a wrap-around Fendi logo, while the iconic Peekaboo bag is reinvented in denim, with an integrated water bottle holder. It is joined by the first Peekaboo ISeeU Petit bag for men, in textured cowhide or with a beaded daisy chain strap. Exploring style at the fulcrum between nostalgia and innovation, the collection proposes a fresh source of inspiration to rethink the men’s wardrobe.
For his first Men’s Ready-to-Wear show for Givenchy, presented at the Ecole Militaire in Paris, Creative Director Mathew M. Williams investigates the societal uniforms of his native America to create a contemporary wardrobe, applying the savoir-faire of the Paris ateliers. A new sharply tailored silhouette emerges with black and grey coats and shell jackets crafted in ultralight leather. A military surplus sensibility infuses pieces with jackets, tactical vests and cargo pants in digitally-printed camouflage motifs on waterproof fabric. The play of fabrics also includes pieces made from a patchwork of upcycled leather offcuts laminated for a super luxe look. With this collection Mathew M. Williams creates contemporary wear through the lens of refined Givenchy elegance.
Louis Vuitton Men’s collection Spring-Summer 2023, named Strange Math, is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the Maison’s ethos. It explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship. For this new collection, a magnified playground, made of children’s toys, has been turned into a runway, in the Carré du Louvre. A huge racetrack defines an evolutionary path and puts forth an allegory of transition, from naive to refined. We discover silhouettes drawn from swoopy lines, which play with shrunken and oversized dimensions, founded on the idea of a wardrobe grown-into or outgrown. French romanticism fills the collection, with flower fields through impressionist paintings, transformed into tapestries and prints. Children’s building blocks and playdough elements adorn garments and accessories, while toolbox components, such as scissors, tweezers, and clamps, embellish garments as three-dimensional embroidered pendants. The motifs celebrate the expert ateliers of the Maison and serve as symbols of the painstaking savoir-faire of the artists. Many accessories, bags, and shoes complete the collection and redefine the Upcycling Ideology, while keeping a playful stance.
LOEWE Men’s runway collection is a fusion of the organic and the fabricated. Shapes are reduced to their archetypal crudeness, standardised and then inflated, shrunken, sliced or left as they are. Nature and technology meet within a glaringly white environment. Made in padded nappa, or ozone-treated cotton makes the garments look as though they’ve been buried underground. The perfect and the worn out. Tech relics—earphones, a pen drive, a phone case—cluster on the leather coat. Plants grow on coats, sweatshirts, sweatpants and running shoes in a process perfected in collaboration with designer Paula Ulargui Escalona. The idea is that over time the pieces merge with nature. The juxtaposition and integration of the natural and the fabricated continues in the setup of the show. The space is glaringly white. Guests follow a natural flow to reach their respective seats, an organic experience from beginning to end.
For his second runway show as Artistic Director of Kenzo, Nigo pursued his “real-to-wear” ethos. Both women’s and men’s looks for Spring/Summer 2023 were inspired by Nigo’s adolescent memories of discovering the creations of Kenzo Takada, as well as Japanese pop brands and a distinctive vision of Paris fashion through a Japanese lens. Beneath colorful flowing pennants in the courtyard of Lycée Carnot high school in Paris, silhouettes alternated between takes on sailor clothes, workwear, preppy looks and British tailoring, frequently referencing the Kenzo archives. “Wavy check”, for example, is a recreation of the jacquard pattern from the Fall/Winter 1992 collection. Japanese denim, iconic Kenzo labels, poppies and Kenzo Takada’s beloved elephant all appear in a nod to the heritage of the House. In addition to sailor hats, Nigo collaborated with Austrian hat maker Mülhlbauer for a vast array of headwear, the new must accessory
The Dior Men’s Summer 2023 collection by Kim Jones is the second chapter in a “conversation” that began last winter, proposing a compelling dialogue with Christian Dior (1905-1957) to mark the 75th anniversary of the Maison. This new segment creates a dialogue with the artworks of British painter Duncan Grant (1885-1978), a prominent member of the Bloomsbury Group. Kim Jones offers a journey through time with a set that evokes the designer’s childhood home, the villa “Les Rhumbs” in Granville, along with Charleston, Duncan Grant’s home in Sussex. Amidst the floral gardens between the two mythic houses, the men’s silhouettes reprise the ever-changing luminosity of the places with gradients of Dior grays to pinks and blue or green pastels. An invitation to outdoor activities, hiking footwear, gardening shoes and backpacks have been imagined in collaboration with outdoor specialists Mystery Ranch, paired with fluid shorts, coats in reclaimed cashmere, plus Bar jackets in silk organza. Iconic Dior codes such as the cannage motif on quilted coats dialogue with works by Duncan Grant, including handmade knits recreating the artist’s sketches. Hats by milliner Stephen Jones fuse exceptional savoir-faire with historical detail. Layered over baseball hats, their design is inspired by the straw gardening hat Duncan Grant wore to paint and evoke the trellis of the pergola in Monsieur Dior’s garden.
Hedi Slimane, Artistic Director of Celine, presented the “Dysfunctional Bauhaus” collection at the Palais de Tokyo, Europe’s largest showcase for contemporary creation. The wardrobe celebrates the 20th anniversary of his 2002 Dior Homme, which was also shown at the museum while it was still under construction. Both classic and disruptive, Hedi Slimane’s vision of men’s fashion unfolded in an amalgamation of androgynous looks and iconic silhouettes. Jackets embellished with jewels and fringe were joined by leather and denim pants, while suits were highlighted with sequins and leopard prints. Hedi Slimane’s new wardrobe transcends established codes, introducing a bold fusion of rock and Parisian elegance.