Givenchy presented its Men’s Spring Summer 2020 collection – the first all-masculine collection by Clare Waight Keller – during the Pitti Immagine Uomo show in Florence. This marquee event on the men’s fashion calendar is being held in Florence from June 11-14.
Clare Waight Keller has been Artistic Director of Maison Givenchy since May 2017. The British designer’s women’s collections have spotlighted her talent in engaging with Givenchy’s creative codes to further elevate them. At the same time she has been equally inspired by the masculine silhouette. After unveiling her debut silhouettes for men during Paris Fashion Week last winter, the Givenchy Artistic Director presented her first all-masculine collection in Florence, emitting a palpable energy.
In the labyrinthian gardens of Villa Palmieri, the Givenchy men’s silhouettes breathed with ample volumes, set off by a palette ranging from fresco shades of damask rose, buttermilk and powder blue to inky midnight, burgundy and gunmetal. The chiaroscuro invokes the dark poetry of Charles Baudelaire, underscored by “Fleurs du Mal” calligraphy fragmented into abstract prints.
Soft jackets in three-button and double-breasted shapes – sometimes sleeveless – are cut in gleaming technical cottons, crisp checks and subtle pinstripes, paired with straight or wide 90’s pans. The collection fuses formal and informal fashion codes, joining cycling tops that hug the torso like a second skin beneath suits, boxy short-sleeved shirts and cargo pants.
In homage to the penchant for opulence of the Maison’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, Italian jacquards are reborn as overcoats and pants, morphing from traditional scrolling florals into new pixelated forms.