Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 show: collages and illusions

Loewe collaborated with American artist Richard Hawkins, whose practice rooted in layered collages and fascination with the male body infused both the show space and the collection by creative director Jonathan Anderson.

Silhouettes in the white cube venue seemed to spring directly from Richard Hawkins’ works. On the wall were a dozen video collages, evoking stained glass windows, referencing both the past and present of the Maison. The artist mixed in 1960s iconic Loewe window designs by José Pérez de Rozas with new footage and imagery featuring brand ambassadors, including actors Josh O’Connor and Jamie Dornan. Snippets of Richard Hawkins’ work appear on clothing and accessories in prints, jacquard on knits, or beaded embroidery on oversize Squeeze bags – instantly recognizable by their Donut chain strap – as well as embellishments on the Puzzle Fold tote, including embroidery and leather marquetry.   

Collages create clothing illusions as well, with pieces attached one to the other: boots and sneakers to socks, socks to trousers, trousers to jacket or coat. Half-belts are sewed to jeans. Roomy cuts define mega cargo pants or leather hoodies, or pieces worn as a dress with outsize bows around the neck, or low waists. Stunning coats over bare chests revealed polo shirt linings and tracksuit bottoms and denim in a multitude of colors. Each look in the show compelled closer inspection to make sure no hidden details were missed.