Marc Jacobs gave a new twist to the fashion show, transforming it into an intimate experience. Each guest was given a set of headphones on which they listened to a narrative taken from John Smith’s 1976 short film called The Girl Chewing Gum. On the runway, the designer drew inspiration from urban and military uniforms that were mischievously reinvented. Flowing dresses in cargo fabric and oversize schoolgirl blouses paraded around a giant pink doll house. The fun, structured collection echoed the designer’s words before the show: “Once you enter my House, it then becomes our House.”
Donna Karan channeled the wealth of multicultural art found on the walls of New York City. Nervous motifs evoking the graffiti of Jean-Michel Basquiat decorated skirts worn with waist-defining vinyl and leather belts. Minimalist tops were inspired by the relaxed comfort of streetwear. Embroidered evening gowns celebrated the designer’s love for casual chic of urban landscapes.
At Edun, Danielle Sherman remained faithful to her African inspirations, associating them with masterpieces by Roy Lichtenstein around the theme of circles. Irregular dot patterns inspired by kponyungo masks from Côte d’Ivoire were joined by steel loop belt buckles that marked the collection. Shapes and materials were inspired by Japan, including wide judo pants in raw, untreated denim, and kimono wrap blouses. The designer’s third collection for Edun once again drew on the cultural melting-pot that has become her signature.