New York kicked off the cycle of women’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2016-2017 shows, as DKNY and Marc Jacobs sent out striking silhouettes. With inspirations ranging from underground to nouveau gothic, this season’s clothes placed a premium on oversize.
For their second season as creative directors of DKNY, New York designer duo Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne continued to explore and reinvent the brand’s urban identity. The conquering silhouettes on the runway combined pieces with an affirmed virility – pin-striped suits with oversize cuts, superwide suspenders and squared shoulders – with red silk dresses and deep décolletés. Crop tops, puffy bomber jackets and patent leather boots rejuvenated the 1990s New York underground spirit. There were also fresh and playful takes on the DKNY logo, such as “Designers Know Nothing Yet”.
Set off against the stark lacquered white floor of the Park Avenue Armory, the looks designed by Marc Jacobs fused spectacular silhouettes featuring outsized volumes and dark tones. The clothes formed an eclectic collection with ornate headpieces and romantic lace joined by leather and denim with a Gothic allure, while feathers were paired with sequins and fur on massive dresses. The proportions were equally audacious: the sleeves on sweatshirts covered the hands all the way down to the knees, dresses ran to the floor, and blouses were topped with voluminous pussy bows. Models wore black eye makeup and lipstick and walked on huge platform boots, transforming them into extravagant fashion denizens for the space of a memorable show.