New York renewal

Winds of change swept across New York women’s fashion week. Marc Jacobs unveiled his latest designs under his new unified label, which blends Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs into one brand. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne presented their first collection for DKNY. And Edun creative director Danielle Sherman took the concept of ethical, cross-cultural fashion to new heights.

This year’s revelation, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne were named DKNY’s new creative directors last spring. Introducing a more low key, pared-down visual identity for the brand, the designers presented their first collection for Spring/Summer 2016. Born and raised in New York, they revisited their creative roots in the city to craft an extremely rigorous, edgy wardrobe. Straight shapes and bold motifs, strong black/white contrasts and Wall Street suits with an inventive Brooklyn twist brought studied sophistication and a surprising touch to DKNY.

For Marc Jacobs, the show was all about celebrating the present and the creativity spawned by social and digital media. Superimposed styles and eras set the tone, with a voluntary focus on the timeless and universal present. More than a style, Marc Jacobs’ show revealed a thought process, the capacity to be inspired by everything and everyone, to explore archives from a fresh point of view, to invent a very personal vision of the present moment. In the elegant, baroque setting of the Ziegfeld Theatre, extra-large, long trench coats inspired by 1950s movies met baggy jeans borrowed from 90s American campuses, and long hippie-era long lacy dresses.

For Edun, Danielle Sherman was inspired by the beautiful motifs of the ceremonial dance costumes of the Kuba Kingdom in Central Africa. Lines and polka dots decorated abstract, geometric shapes borrowed from artists of the 1930’s. Tops with straight collars and exposed shoulders, long dresses and tunics layered over large solid patches, created structured yet flowing silhouettes.