Paris Fashion Week: a look back at Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collections
Fashion & Leather Goods
© Louis Vuitton
From Milan to Paris, LVMH Fashion Maisons – Patou, FENDI, Dior, Givenchy, LOEWE, Louis Vuitton, – present their visions of the contemporary woman’s wardrobe for the coming season.
Under the glass roof of La Samaritaine, Patou artistic director Guillaume Henry presented a collection entitled “Shopping Chronicles”. Carrying chic Caddie® shopping bags, bucket hats on their heads and shades perched on their noses, the silhouettes meandered with ready-to-roll fantasy. Laced-up thigh-boots designed in collaboration with Maison Ernest set off a wardrobe for women on the go in monochrome colorways of red, black, lavender, pink or burgundy. Shimmering puffers segue to velvet evening dresses, cozy knits are joined by denim, and high-cut smocks are worn over pencil or deep slit skirts. Patou bags are carried over the shoulder or in the hand, ready for every moment of the day amidst plays of materials and volumes. Pleated mini-skirts and crop tops reveal some skin, and hair bows underscore the feminine allure of the Patou muses.
For this season’s showcase in Milan, Artistic Director of FENDI Couture and Womenswear Kim Jones explores classicism and elegance through the lens of subtle subversion. Drawing inspiration from the wardrobe of jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez Fendi — the daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi— the designer plays with binaries and gender archetypes in a deconstruction of ladylike sophistication. Masculine tailoring is twisted into feminine forms throughout the collection, including boilersuits, aprons and uniforms. Lace is layered and flashes of fetishism appear through peeks of lingerie or thigh-high lace-up boots, while draped dresses are bias-cut. In a punk perspective, knitwear appears cleanly slashed or gently warped for a nonchalant silhouette. The wardrobe includes satin dresses romantically trailed by billowing scarves. The Italian house also introduced the new FENDI Multi bag, an homage to the multipurpose sensibility innate to Fendi.
For her Dior Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into French post-War style, inspired by three icons of the 1950s, Catherine Dior—Christian Dior’s sister—Edith Piaf and Juliette Gréco. Against the backdrop of a bold and organic décor entitled Valkyrie Miss Dior, a monumental work created by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, the silhouettes expressed a femininity that goes against the grain, at the same time rebellious, strong and fragile. Floral motifs, a nod to the legacy of Catherine Dior, embellished mottled effect or poplin fabrics. Coats, jackets and straight or “corolle” skirts come in tartan fabrics. Black – a color that Edith Piaf and Juliette Gréco cherished – is predominant throughout the fashion show, but there are also shades of ruby, emerald, topaz yellow and blue.
Matthew M. Williams proposes a contemporary dialogue between Parisian chic and American cool for the Fall Winter 2023 Womenswear Collection. Structured tailoring – including long black coats developed in the Haute Couture atelier – is joined by sophisticated sports- and workwear. Cashmere, sweats and denim pieces are worn under shell jackets lined in shearling. The fluidity of lavallières and fine wool becomes a proposition of both empowerment and comfort. Leather dresses both hands and bodies in jackets that reveal legs and smocked leather dresses. Evening silhouettes introduce floral colors – spring green, gracious mauve and pink rose – a blooming nod to the heritage of Hubert de Givenchy. The fish motif twists around the feminine body, joined by a whirlwind of pearls, resonating with the Maison’s archives. Accessories include the new Voyou bag with biker details on luxury materials, reflecting a vision of a woman with affirmed confidence. The finale is a majestic black triangle tulle dress built on a corset and pleated entirely by hand.
In this season’s women’s collection, LOEWE creative director Jonathan Anderson continues the reductionist act that started with the FW23 men’s collection. In a pristine white space, silhouettes walked against a set featuring colored confetti cubes by Italian artist Lara Favaretto. Materials followed one another in a succession of silk duchesse and satins, feathers, leather shirt-jackets and outsized faux fur coats. Shapes blur as a trench coat morphs into a dress through the magic of an out-of-focus print, or pants that collapse into leather boots. Between dawn and long nights, a bustier dress evokes a sheet pulled off a bed, confetti remains stuck to pumps, while coats and boots sparkle with festive spirit. With their textures of buttery leather, fuzzy shearling and multiple wearing options, accessories complete the silhouettes. With its gold chain, the new Squeeze bag begs to be grabbed, alongside oversized Puzzle totes and Paseo bag and the leather woven leather baskets, shining a bright light on exquisite LOEWE craft.
Louis Vuitton Artistic Director of Women’s collections Nicolas Ghesquière took over the vaulted galleries of the Musée d’Orsay to present his new collection. Silhouettes were set off against a scenography by artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund, featuring a concept based on sound illusions conceived by composer Nicolas Becker. French style reached beyond codes under the bright lights. Accompanied by a symphony of everyday sounds – steps, heartbeats, horns playing, urban alarms, rainstorms, dogs barking and more – models walked the runway with their faces framed by luminous masks or highlighted by micro-mirrors. They carried fresh takes on iconic Vuitton bags for this new journey of style. Echoing French heritage, a Paris street-name plaque morphs into a bag stamped “1854 Louis Vuitton Paris”. Melding tradition and bold creativity, French couture by Louis Vuitton is never frozen in time. It embodies the confluence of savoir-faire, technical prowess, discovery and artistic ideals. The art of reappropriation informs boots that imitate skin tones or the whiteness of a pair of socks. Volumes expand knitwear, pants and scarves are clasped with tiny clarinet, tuba and trombone brooches. Like a musical obsession, the instruments gleam with joyful copper reflections around the neck, or morph to match looks in blue, white and red iterations. Ethereal sleeves, V-necks on trapeze dresses and leather patches or skinny belts highlight the feminine body. Actress, friend of the House and brand ambassador HoYeon Jung walked the runway in a stunning embroidered flower dress to cap a collection ready for a stroll down the streets.