Paris Fashion Week: men on the catwalk
Men’s Fashion Week took place in Paris from January 21-24. Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Berluti, Kenzo, Dior and Loewe all presented looks that will define Fall/Winter 2016/17 trends.
An eternal traveler, the Louis Vuitton man has returned to his roots, taking inspiration from Parisians of yesterday and today for his Fall/Winter wardrobe. From Baron de Redé to the Art Deco period, Men’s Style Director Kim Jones draws on a variety of inspirations. Silk ensembles and large scarves accessorized the necks of sophisticated silhouettes, while military berets, khaki bomber jackets and backpacks equip the urban adventurer. The Vuitton man is above all a traveler who is constantly on the move, wearing the traces of his voyages on his jackets and t-shirts, which are marked with the Louis Vuitton stamp like a passport, the signature of the show.
Riccardo Tisci has designed an unabashedly virile menswear collection, symbolizing his stylistic freedom by blending strong pieces with low-key looks. Like the Bostwana Renegades, young African heavy metal fans who inspired the creative director, his silhouettes are dressed in black leather jackets and bomber jackets with cobra motifs. Meanwhile, fringes, large-buckled belts and velvet ankle boots reinvent the cowboy figure. Tweed suit coats and close-fitting black suits add calm to the collection. Twelve female models made an entrance over the course of the show, draped in haute couture designs from Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
Alessandro Sartori’s collection for Berluti is marked by sophisticated minimalism. Square volumes leave ample room for a laid-back vibe: shirts are replaced by loose T-shirts and turtlenecks with rolled up sleeves, pants reveal a naked ankle and shoes worn without socks. Shoe models have been reinvented, connecting the shoemaker’s craftmanship with the codes of sports footwear. Pieces made from soft materials are marked by striped graphics, as well as tattoo art imagined by artist Scott Campbell. Drawn onto the models’ skin, tattoos are also present on shoes, bags, knitwear and scarves, adding a folk-rock touch to the collection.
Kenzo sent out its Fall/Winter looks to the sound of a hundred singing voices gathered in the center of the podium. The vibrations of the chorus joined together with those of this eclectic collection, with its printed silk shirts, velvet coats, wide woolen pants and imitation-alligator jackets. Kenzo’s color palette, as audacious as ever, ranges from burgundy to mustard to pastel blue. The palette is completed by Japanese-inspired motifs, an homage by Carol Lim and Umberto Leon to Kenzo Takada, the founder of the brand, whose handwritten signature was printed on several pieces in the collection.
Subversion defines the mood for Kris Van Assche’s Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection. On a podium transformed into a chic skate park, silhouettes combine traditional codes with New Wave culture. Narrow suit jackets contrast with oversized pants, white shirts borrow checked motifs from overcoats, and accessories are in full rebellion: Dior’s emblematic pink is matched with dark wardrobe colors and coupled with black, conveying a resolutely youthful and contemporary vision of the Dior man.
No catwalk for Loewe, which opted for a presentation in Paris in conjunction with the launch of a new media campaign, revealing a striking menswear collection. Inspired by the rocky natural setting of Cuenca, Spain, Jonathan Anderson continues to rework the House signature, imagining a collection of raw, wild elegance. Organic materials and animal motifs give a primitive flavor to the silhouettes, whose movements are freed thanks to extra-wide cuts. The Loewe creative director designed the accessories in XXL formats, notably the bags, including the collection’s newest addition, the Goya.