Paris men’s fashion

The Fall-Winter 2015 collections presented in Paris by LVMH fashion Houses were both innovative and impertinent, with silhouettes that make bold statements. They offer a wardrobe that doesn’t limit itself to classics, while drawing on them to redesign the look of the contemporary man.

For Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche created a collection melding a bespoke tailoring spirit and sportswear. Elegant three-piece suits were decorated with medals and featured jacquard weaves, and lengthy coats were joined by sleek or roomy pants in mohair, lambskin and denim. The eclectic contrasts were presented against a soundtrack from 32 live violinists whose classical playlist was cleverly revisited with an electro touch.

Louis Vuitton paid tribute to British fashion designer Christopher Nemeth, who passed away in 2010. Initially an illustrator, he introduced the art of the motif to men’s fashion, creating extravagant pieces while revisiting classics. Kim Jones took four original Nemeth artworks from the archives and used the motifs on coats, sweaters and cashmere pants, proposing a modern silhouette that emphasizes size, with a meticulous attention to detail.

Mystical force defined the poetic and somber collection presented by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. He assembled patterns, fabrics, esthetic references and emotions inspired by alternative cultures and spirituality from around the world, bringing them together in a precise and linear wardrobe, unified by exquisite artisanal quality. Against a red and black décor, the designer sent out a collection with eclectic references, from gothic suits with long jackets to sequin coats with sacred Native American inspired patterns.

At Kenzo, Umberto Leon and Carol Lim reprised the theme of their last womenswear collection, exploring the possibility of extraterrestrial human life. The collection was all about experimentation, featuring nylon sheath pieces that shaped futuristic silhouettes. Oversize sweaters were decorated with alternating patterns of ancient hieroglyphs and modern graffiti, like a post-human graphic language.

For his second menswear collection at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson continued to explore the shapes that define the House’s new identity. Eccentric and mischievous, the Loewe man embodies the ebullient energy of youth and a modernity that eschews codes. Wide pants set off the sharp silhouette of suits, while coats and jackets were crafted in blue Japanese denim and snakeskin.

The Berluti collection for Fall-Winter 2015 marked the beginning of celebrations around the 120th anniversary of the house. Berluti for the first time sent models down a runway, marking a turn to relaxed elegance. The collection introduced the new Alessio shoe, a sports version of the iconic Alessandro, joining other emblematic models featured in the show. The roomy lines of the clothes spotlighted new-generation jersey in alpaca, tweed and liquid silk in amber, green and ocher tones.