LVMH fashion houses focused the spotlight on menswear during Spring/Summer 2018 Men’s Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris. In Milan, Fendi featured a collection that blends elegance and a relaxed attitude, while Louis Vuitton, Berluti, Dior Homme, Kenzo and Loewe showcased their summery looks in Paris.
The Roman house presented a manifesto of a collection as formalwear dress meets playful escapism. The eclectic looks play on duality with technical pieces associated with suit jackets, ties, white collars and suspenders. Shorts are paired with silk shirts and colorful big blousons brighten up office attire. Beige, brown and green are set off with touches of pink in a natural color palette for cottons, leathers and silk. Accessories include reversible bags and straps embroidered with the signature Fendi double F.
For his Spring/Summer 2018 collection, Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton Men’s Artistic Director, drew inspiration from far-flung islands – New Zealand, Easter Island and especially Hawaii. In keeping with the tradition of the Maison, travel and wanderlust are transposed to exotic prints on shirts, revisited with intarsia knits. Silhouettes are also inspired by scuba-diving. Light, modern and fluid materials like neoprene mix with silk to express a luxurious fusion.
Kenzo once again showed its women’s and men’s collections together in the courtyard of Lycée Camille Sée in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. Kenzo Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon wanted to capture the personal flair of Japanese musician Ryuichi Sakamoto and the ability of model and actress Sayoko Yamaguchi to mix patterns, prints, silhouettes and colors. Skirts in the Women’s collection meet running t-shirts and ruffled crepe dresses appear with floral jacquard coats. The Men’s collection associates 50’s baseball trousers with graphic tees. Prints provided by Ryuichi Sakamoto himself are worn alongside striped tops and cashmere patterns.
Dior Homme Creative Director Kris Van Assche studied the deconstruction and reconstruction of the Dior Homme suit, fusing sportswear and tailoring to produce controlled gestures of volume. A slim and sculpted blazer tailored in ottoman wool is transformed into a long summer coat, a backless or sleeveless gilet or a bias-cut tailcoat. The base of the jacket is bisected into polos and shirting or tacked to wide pants, contrasting with varsity elements like bomber sleeve jackets, or collegiate wreathes adorning track tops. Shots of cyan and yellow are injected into a palette of vermillion, burgundy, camel and sky blue.
For his first Summer collection, Berluti Creative Director Haider Ackermann celebrates in the technical virtuosity of leather-working inherent to the history of the Maison. The starting point for the collection was a photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, celebrated for his ability to rework colors into morphed nuances. The color palette welcomes subtle new hues like “icy blue” or “milky white” for a perfecto with bonded leather lining. Silk punctuates all the silhouettes, bringing lightness and playing off other materials. The collection will now be available on the new Berluti shopping site as soon as it comes to the Maison’s stores.
The collection designed by Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of Loewe, draws inspiration from the architecture of the house of famed Catalan painter Salvador Dali. Sportswear items are elevated via artisanal touches, intricate appliqués and colorful embroideries on slippers, shirts and bags. A swimwear look in stretch suede exemplifies the way Loewe works leather and its unprecedented qualities. Loewe also showed its first version of a suit, made from extrafine lilac mohair. The collection is accompanied by a limited-edition publication featuring photos taken at Dali’s house in Cadaqués, in Spain and available on iTunes.