® Louis Vuitton
LVMH fashion houses Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Dior, Kenzo, Loewe, Celine, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton were all in the spotlight as they presented their women’s collections for next winter during Women’s Fall Winter 2019/2020 Fashion Weeks in New York, Milan and Paris. Highlights from Emilio Pucci in Milan and shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection created by Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton is a vibrant homage to culture – the culture of museums, the culture of fashion, the culture of the past and of right now. The show took place at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, but models walked the runway in a set that recreated Beaubourg, the famous Centre Pompidou, an emblematic Paris cultural melting pot. This duality between past and present figured at the heart of the collection. Graphic juxtapositions created a dialogue between motifs and materials for silhouettes structured by oversize ruffled collars and jutting shoulders. The Monogram and Damier oscillated on accessories. “I love that impression of a sartorial melting pot. Today, I’ve transposed it at Louis Vuitton: a House of multiple expressions,” said Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director for Louis Vuitton Women’s collections.
Clare Waight Keller, Artistic Director of Givenchy, presented a Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection dubbed “The Winter of Eden”, invoking the origin myth of the Garden of Eden. The temptation that brings Adam and Eve together reveals a seductive silhouette, touched by a polished sense of individuality. A certain duality marks the sculptural aesthetic of the collection as sharp geometric lines reconcile with the innate softness of rounded forms. The silhouettes marry tailoring and flou, with herringbone tweeds and flourishing taffeta, structured coats and flowing dresses. Embroidery and textures showed brightly against the nocturnal backdrop of the Jardin des Plantes in Paris. The botanical setting was referenced on long pleated dresses with floral prints, as well as python trenchcoats and bags. Accessories spotlighted Givenchy’s “Eden” bag, the latest creation by Clare Waight Keller.
Hedi Slimane had all eyes facing upwards for the start of the Celine Fall/Winter 2019-2020 show in Les Invalides in Paris as a glass box descended from the sky and the Celine silhouette emerged on the runway, instantly evoking a figure from the collective imagination. An emancipated woman, decisive and proud, embodying the chic à la française of Paris in the late 1970s. Thigh-high black leather fur-lined boots, below-the-knee culotte skirts, white blouses, printed scarves and aviator glasses…Hedi Slimane created silhouettes imbued with a studied vintage inspiration, revisited with exquisite perfection. Tweed, shearling and glitter all joined a wardrobe featuring suit jackets, airy capes and skinny jeans. A collection whose simplicity and retro elegance worked impeccably.
Pristine white walls at the Maison de l’UNESCO adorned with miniature portraits of royal notables from Mary Stuart to King Charles I provided the backdrop for the Loewe Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection by Jonathan Anderson. The creative director of the Maison opted for a suggestive narrative, a conversation where Loewe’s craft and the form of each silhouette interact. Pigment shades of saffron, cerulean and vermillion break with the uniformity of black, olive, navy, camel, ivory and wine. Smooth leather and satin are worked as surfaces on kimono coats in checkerboard or striped patterns. The singular character of the show was expressed in winged skullcaps in a variety of materials, as well as Chelsea boots with beechwood heels. For accessories, Loewe presented a new Lantern bag with a gilded metal interior that references the “Straeter Lite-On” of the 1950s. The form of the Lazo handbag is reinvented and the Puzzle and Gate bags are revisited in striped leather.
For the fourth edition of the Memento collections inspired by reinterpretations of the archives of Maison Kenzo, Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon spotlighted a diverse and highly colorful selection of prints and patterns to celebrate the fantasy of founder Kenzo Takada. Found on all the key pieces in the Fall-Winter 2019/2020 collection, the prints were revisited in myriad forms. Realism informed cotton pieces with a tomato motif in red and yellow, while an airbrushed tiger roared in blue or light brown on t-shirts, sweaters and shirts. Kenzo also presented its “running tiger” motif for the first time. The hypergraphic “K” pattern referencing the Women’s Spring-Summer 1992 collection returned in a two-color version on skirts and dresses. The Memento No. 4 also innovated with its see-now-buy-now format, with all the pieces the collection available in stores around the world and on kenzo.com the day after the runway show.
For the Dior Women’s Fall-Winter 2019/2020 collection, Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri turned her attention to “Teddy Girls”, the female counterpoint to “Teddy Boys”, one of the first British subcultures from the 1950s, a way of revisiting the post-war period marked by Christian Dior’s New Look. The look of Teddy Girls featured extravagant hairstyles, Edwardian-style men’s jackets, ample skirts, jeans and black leather jackets. Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into British culture, a frequent source of inspiration for Christian Dior, to create a thoroughly modern women’s wardrobe for next winter. Among the emblematic pieces revisited are the Bar suit with a more masculine line and technical fabrics, as well as the black leather jacket originally created by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior. Through the modernity of materials and techniques, the iconic silhouette of the Miss Dior dress expresses the mix of strength and grace favored by the Artistic Director. And a new version of Toile de Jouy appears on a series of shirts with checks and gingham in black and red or black and white.
Emilio Pucci presented its women’s collection for next winter during Milan Fashion Week, proposing a journey into a Japanese garden. The show featured the signature Pucci print foulard, reinterpreted along with new textiles such as bonded wool and evening dresses with embroidered sequins. A palette of serene pastels was set off by electric blue and fiery red solids. Pleated silk foulards sensually follow the curves of the body and a lurex chemisier was revamped with exotic kimono sleeves. Statement accessories completed the look of the Pucci woman, including leather boots and pumps with silver cap toes, bucket bags adorned with fringes and oversized mono-earrings.