© Louis Vuitton
LVMH fashion Maisons presented their Fall/Winter collections for 2018-2018 during fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris. Spotlight on the runway shows from Marc Jacobs in New York, Fendi and Emilio Pucci in Milan, and Christian Dior, Kenzo, Loewe, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton in Paris.
Louis Vuitton brought Paris Fashion Week to a close with a Fall/Winter 2018-2019 ready-to-wear collection presented in a courtyard at the Louvre. Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director for Louis Vuitton women’s collections, proposed a sober and elegant silhouette, resolutely modern and classic. Layering and fringe gave a twist to suits and skirts, accompanied by bags carried horizontally.
In an atmosphere that inspired contemplation and calm, Loewe presented its Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collection at UNESCO headquarters in Paris. The Maison’s signature leather structured pleated cotton dresses, while oversized coats enveloped the models. Accessories played with volumes too, including bags with leather backs and a new minimalist version of the Gate bag.
With pure, graphic lines, the women’s and men’s silhouettes in the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2018-2019 are both brutalist and glamorous. Wool and leather pieces come in solid monochrome tones, galvanized by shiny metallic surfaces on pants and dresses. Bows and fringes grace cocktail dresses, some entirely embroidered with pearls, recalling the evening wear designed by Hubert de Givenchy. A checked pattern from the Givenchy archives is updated with graphic compositions. For accessories, the runway show premiered the Gem A4 clutch and the Jaw quilted tote.
Paintings by Le Douanier Rousseau were the inspiration of Kenzo’s Collection Memento n°3, presented during Paris Fashion Week. Knitwear anchored the collection with archival pieces and modern takes on classics. A floral theme guided the wardrobe for women, while menswear was marked by a return to a relaxed silhouette rich in texture with technical tailoring, corduroy and reversible striped coats. The colorful and tapestry-led Memento N°3 collection features a bright color palette in which yellows, blues, reds and greens prevail.
Nearly 50 years after the May 1968 events in France, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of Dior women’s collections, revisits a historic period when the rules of fashion were turned on their head and the idea of fashion itself was challenged. Inspired by the spirit of freedom, the collection features organza dresses with woolen embroideries, reworked and printed jeans, patchwork skirts, plus kilts in different lengths and unexpected materials like point d’esprit. Accessories include bags inspired by Dior archives with an ethnic shoulder strap.
Fall/Winter 2018-2019 Fashion Week saw the return of Emilio Pucci to the Milan catwalk. Sportswear and alluring femininity inspired a collection that plays with volumes: nipped waists, ornate big skirts that recall Pucci classics, voluminous duvets and tight-fitting dresses… Pastel tones of pinks, blues, grays and taupe join with prints from the Pucci archives. Sophistication meets function in the accessories, including leather shopping bags, clutches and pocket-bourses attached at the waist.
In Milan, Fendi proposed a romantic uniform for a strong woman. The architectural lines of the collection and a color palette of navy, black, moss green, ivory and blushing pink evoke an urban woman. The silhouettes have structured shoulders and accentuated waists, with glazed trenchcoats bearing the FF logo. Cape dresses, pleated Prince of Wales check skirts, crêpe and satin dresses underscore the elegance of a collection that also introduces new versions of the iconic Peekaboo bag.
Closing New York Fashion Week, the Fall-Winter 2018-2019 collection by Marc Jacobs echoed the esthetics of the 80s, bringing together oversize pieces, floral prints and popping colors. Fabrics ranged from iridescent moirés to double-faced cashmeres, taffetas, velvet and satins, playing with exaggerated volumes. Accessories included studded clutches, suede buckets and sharp hats to underscore the clean lines.