October 1, 2012

Structure meets
modernity

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The summer 2013 fashions showcased in Paris are bursting with unbridled nowness, always with a resolutely feminine feel. Céline, Christian Dior and Givenchy presented collections that spoke to structure and sophistication. The houses’ respective creative directors—Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons and Riccardo Tisci—played on the purity of lines for clothes as luxurious as they are chic.

Phoebe Philo chose the salons of a private mansion on Avenue Foch to send out silhouettes showing a neo-minimalist spirit. The ambiance at Dior was light and nocturnal, while Givenchy created a mystic atmosphere, including music from a giant organ at the center of the runway and the scent of myrrh in the air as the models stepped out coiffed in demure, elegantly sober chignons.

At Dior, Raf Simons revisited the classics of the House—the Bar jacket and the famous “A” line and “H” line silhouettes—interpreted with contemporary femininity. A gown-jacket capped the collection with graphically stunning glamour. Riccardo Tisci underlined monochrome dresses with vertical ruffles. A couture spirit inspired Céline, with superposed fabrics and juxtaposed tops.

The Paris fashions are informed by a modernity that’s all about lightness, blending colors—including rainbow for Dior—and materials. The black and white alliance is magnetic, often enhanced with a touch of putty gray, while organza and satin create textural depth.

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